One Great Picture

Surfing has been great the last couple of weeks. The weather is bright like Summer but the waves are big like Fall. Last week, Jason and I surfed Ocean Beach and it was probably one of my best days out there. I managed to catch my first three waves and Jason and I managed to high-five while up on a wave. Three waves on any day is great, three in a row is a new record.

I also managed to get dragged backward over a sizable wave (I just didn't clear the top on the paddle out) and got rag-dolled for what felt like forever. It was one of those times where I couldn't tell which way was up and I was wondering if you could take a lung full of water and still swim a bit or if you just panicked and died at that point. With any luck, I'll never figure that out. In spite of that, it was gorgeous out there.

Incidentally the shot of Jason above was probably the first good picture I've managed to get off my Olympus Stylus in the waterproof case. It seems no matter what I try it fogs up right in front on the lens. The next trick I'm going to try is spit, just like in swim class. If you have ideas let me know.